Vassfaret. Updated info and better pictures of this remote gem in eastern Norway.
Update "Vinterklatring i Bodø-området". South face of Preikstoltind. 8 pitches, M5 R and Småtindtraversen (10 peaks traverse, appr M5)
Entertainment from winter Norway
Miss alms of Var, film from a new, excellent ice route in the Bodø area
Hydne right 2015. Pawel Karczmarczyk has shared an album from a Hydefossen-adventure in february 2015 (requiers google+-account).
New winter climbing guide for the Bodø area
The 2014-edition of the winter climbing guide book for the Bodø area is out. Available at Skandinavisk høyfjellsutstyr in Bodø. NOK 299.-. 164 pages, new maps, new climbs etc.
New winterclimbing guide for Senja!
Bent Vidar Eilertsen / Senja Lodge has made a mini guide for winter climbing on Senja / North Norway. Read the guide here.
New major route in the north face of Stetind -
E du nord -
8R, 1500 meters, 20 pitches + running belay in the middle and upper part. (1.9.2014, updated 2.9.2014)
Mats Peder Mosti, Steinar Grynning and Jo Arve Repp. Mats and Steinar climbed the first two thirds 15. July 2014, but turned a pitch up the upper headwall. They returned the 30.August, climbed the normal route, rappelled down the headwall, cleaned and tested the crux pitch, then pulled down the rope and finished the route. The route share the first pitches of the original North face route from 1985. The climbers places no bolts. There is a knife blade piton on the crux pitch. The picture below is from the excellent Stetind guidebook. Yellow marks the first attempt from Mats and Steinar. Green marks the final attempt for Steinar, Mats and Jo Arve.
Click here for a topo of the climb.
Pawel Karczmarczyk is riding again! New, hard mix line at Vettisfossen. "Vicky Vette", M7+, WI6+, 300 m. (11.3.2013)
Pawel Karczmarcyk and Martin Skår Olslund climbed a new, hard route at Vettisfossen 26.2.2013. The line goes to the left of the main waterfall, start with three hard mix-pitches, then three pitches of WI5 and 6 to the top. Pictures and topo will come!
Long standing projects climbed in Bodø-area: Fyrtårn, WI6+, 250 m, Slettliflågfossen, WI6, 300 m (11.3.2013).
The strong austrian climbers Albert Leichfried and Benedikt Purner have once again visited Northern Norway and climbed a lot of hard ice lines. This time they went to the Bodø area and stayed there from 10. to 17. February. Among highlights, they got first ascents of Fyrtårn in Novika and Slettliflågfossen in Beiarfjorden. Both these waterfalls have waited a long time for their first ascents. More pictures will come, for details, check out the Gildeskål-part of the Ice climbing guide for Bodø-area.
Mad first ascent on Abrahams tind in Lofoten: "All in", WI7/M8/X, 400 m. (06.03.2012)
Andreas Klarström and Martin Skaar Olslund went "All in" on Abrahams tind, Lofoten 3/3-2012. Poorly protected climbing up to WI7 and M8 sent in onsight style. For more beta and cool pictures, check out this album . Abrahamstind was opened with the "Swiss route" in 2009.
"All in", Abrahams tind, 3/3-2012 © Andreas Klarström
Photos from the recent climbing meetings in Rjukan and Lofoten (06.03.2012)
The first album shows Andreas Klarström and Martin Skaar Olslund praticing on Das Fenster, Rjukan, while the second shows some sweet roadside cragging in Lofoten.
Thomas Meling leading "Roadtrash", Lofoten, © Andreas Klarström
New guidebook for Bodø-area! (4.2.2012)
A new guide book for the Bodø area is now ready. Available from Skandinavisk høyfjellsutstyr in Bodø or via Sveinung Bertnes Råheim. Winter climbing from Saltdal and Gildeskål in the south to Sørfold in the north. Frozen waterfalls, mix climbing, alpine peaks!
Bakkekollen is formed! (23.01.2012)
Bakkekollen in proper conditions! Rarely formed, rarely climbed, 1.5 hours from Oslo! Definitely on of the best lines of eastern Norway. The last time Bakkekollen was climbable as a pure iceline was (as far as we know) back in 2002/2003. The line is exposed to the sun, so the conditions won't last for ever... Our Bakkekollen album is updated with 11 new pictures. See also our topo for more information.
Bakkekollen 19/01-2012 © Helge Fonnum
Current Ice Conditions (23.01.2012)
Hydnefossen in Hemsedal and Langåni in Vang are in good conditions. Langåni is exposed to the sun, but will hopefully be climbable a few more weeks. Hydnefossen often get better conditions later in the season. We have prepared an album showing current conditions. Thanks to Fredrik Moell and Martin Skaar Olslund for information and pictures!
Langåni 15/01-2012 © Fredrik Moell
Stavadalen - conditions (26.12.2011)
Fine conditions at O'hoi in Stavadalen (Valdres). See more pictures at the isupdate page at facebook.
New guide for Sørdalen and Bardujord (4.12.2011)
A new guide is available for download for the Sørdalen and Bardujord area in Troms. The guide presents some of the best ice climbing in Northern Norway.
New lines in Sørdalen, Troms (25.3.2011)
In late february Albert Leichtfried and Benni Purner sent two new interesting lines in Sørdalen, Troms. You can see pictures and get some more information by clicking here. There is also a note out on alpinist.com. Isklatring.no will come back with a topo for the area later on!
New topo for Hydnefossen added (14.3.2011)
Hydnefossen often provides excellent conditions late in the season, and can often be climbed until the easters. This year seems to be no exception! Our new topo also describes some rarely climbed variations.
Condition report from Langåni and Drøsja in Vang (28.2.2011)
We have had several questions about conditions at Langåni at the moment. None of us has been threre lately, but here are some pics from today. See album. Make your own jugdements!
We have also reports that Måbødalen is not good at the moment (from 27.2.2011).
Lithium (WI5, 6 pitches), new line to the right of Hydnefossen, Hemsedal (05.2.2011)
Martin Skaar Olslund and Mikjel Thorsrud sent this obvious (but rarely formed?) line 30/1-2011. Probably a first ascent according to updated sources. Adventurous climbing, highly recommended! As you will see from the album, there seems to be possibilities for a desperate (but beautiful) direct start (estimated grad WI 6-7). But remember one ting: NO DRILLED BOLTS!!! Check topo and album for further details!
Lithium, 30. jan 2011.©Mikjel Thorsrud
Good conditions at Langåni (31.1.2011)
Resent report from Jan Petter Brenfeldt says the conditions on the classic Langåni in Vang, Valdres are good.
Langåni jan 2011.©Jan Petter Brenfeldt
New difficult mix-climb put up at Kristiansmokollen, Valdres by Polish/Swedish team (28.1.2011)
Pawel Karczmarczyk and Per Lindberg did the first winter free ascent of the route Smørbukken in Kristiansmokollen the 22.1.2011. The initial overhang was given M7+, the rest of the route M6/M6+. The route is 3 pitches, 120 m, and was first put up as a summer route in 1995 by Paul Bakken & Sveinung Råheim. The team has also repeated several other classics of the area under less than ideal conditions. Check album!!
© Pawel Karczmarczyk
Do-able conditions on Code Red (300m, WI 6) in Setesdalen (13.1.2011)
Two ascents so far in january. Click here for more pictures.
Good ice conditions in the Bodø area (11.1.2011)
The conditions for ice climbing are good in Bodø this winter. Longer periods of cold weather with a littlebit of rain and mild air inbetween have given good supply of water and lot of ice forming. Among lots of interesting things to do, there is good conditions on the exotic "Poseidon" (see picture below). 4 pitches straight out of the see, only possible start is from a boat!
©Hanne Bertnes Råheim
Fransk isfestival - Ecrin Ice Festival (15.12.2010)
13-16 januar 2011 går Ecrin Ice Festival av stabelen for 21. gong. Nydeleg isklatring, drytoolkonkurranse, kurs og ikkje minst konsertar og fest på kveldane. Rimeleg overnatting i Gites eller liknande. Meir info her: http://www.ice-climbing-ecrins.com/. (Kjelde: Francois Lombard).
Fine forhold på Reiårsfossen i Setesdal! (10.12.2010)
Reiårsfossen i Setesdal er og kalla "The Boss" blant fossane i dalen. Fossen har stor vassføring noko som kan gjere han ustabil. Men no er han bra! Les meir om han her: Isfører - Steepstone. (Kjelde: Knut W. Bygland)
Forhold på Vettisfossen! (3/3-2010)
Jonatan Hulten & Anders Carlson frå Göteborg klatra Vettisfossen den 8/2-2010. Dei hadde følgjande å seie om forholda: "Bra skick, lite smålurig travers in på pelaren, galna formationer och ganska blött. Antagligen precis som den brukar vara." Det er ganske sannsynleg at forholda er minst like bra no - absolutt mulegheiter med andre ord!
Skrikjo klatra! (3/3-2010)
Sjå bloggen til Will Gadd
Kaldt ver bygger is på vestlandet (5/1-2010)
Kulda dei siste vekene byrjar å vise seg i fjellsidene på Vestlandet. Vi har motteke nokre bilder frå Knut Elde Johansen som viser Skrikjo, ein muleg ugått, lang og bratt foss mellom Odda og Eidfjord, sjå kartutsnittet under. I følge informasjon Knut fekk av folk som bur der er det sjeldan denne fossen frys heilt ned.
Sjå og galleriet for bilder
Vis Vestlandet i eit større kart
Shocking news: -Thomas Jasper and his friends have ruined the super-line in Gudvangen. (posted 9/3-09, updated 24/3-09)
Official statement from Norsk Tindeklub/Alpine club of Norway
Summary of Norwegian statements by Bjørn Eivind Aarthun at Steepstone.com
Gudvangen in western Norway is home to several world-class routes. These lines provide around 1000 meter of continuous steep ice-climbing. Some of the lines are climbed, but the greatest line was still untouched before Robert Jasper introduced his climbing ethics to Norway. Over two attempts in early February he and his friends placed a huge number of bolts before they "completed" it February 19.
Many climbers used to consider this super-line as the number one alpine challenge in Norway. It makes up the most perfect line of ice one can imagine. For over a decade it has frightened mind of climbers, visitors as well as Norwegians. What makes it so creepy is a combination of the thin ice on the steep introductory slabs and the huge overhangs midway. The overhangs (used to) represent something unknown, and it was not possible to assess from the ground whether it was possible to climb through it or not. The deal is that if you climbed up to the overhangs and discovered that they were impossible to defeat, it would perhaps be impossible to return by abseiling as the ice is (usually) far too thin for ablakovs / v-threads. Therefore the line demanded either exceptionally good conditions, or very confident climbers trusting their abilities to down climb all the way back to the valley floor.
Robert Jasper is for sure not the first internationally reknown climber who has realized his limited abilities when confronted to this line. Several climbers have recognized the potential this line offered to move the standards of modern ice-climbing to the next level. But instead of waiting for the right conditions or working on his mental skills, Jasper decided to take the route down to his own level. Robert Jasper and his friends have placed bolts for the lead climber through the overhangs, as well as establishing bolted rappel anchors all the way from the overhangs back to the valley floor (nine pitches). If the style and climbing ethics introduced by Robert Jasper was accepted in Norway, this kicker of a line -10 minutes approach from the main-road- would probably have been sent 10 or 15 years ago. The reaction among Norwegian climbers is a mix between disbelief and shock.
In order to give Jasper a chance to answer for him selves, we have waited several days to publish this post, but he has still not replied to our inquiry. Since we believe that the climbing community deserve answers, we have decided to post the inquiry sent to Jasper:
I think it is very important to be honest about the choice of style and I would appreciate a detailed list specifying the following:
a) Number of bolts on belay-stations which can be used while climbing (ascending).
b) Number of bolts on rapell anchors which are placed outside the route and therefor can only be used while abseiling (descending)
c) Number of bolts placed in mix terrain to protect the lead climber
d) Was it possible to make belays without placing bolts on the first 9 pitches? Or wasnt the ice thick enough in the conditions when you climbed?
Finally, a few words on climbing ethics in Norway. Foreign climbers are welcome to visit Norway and climb new lines. But we expect visitors will take into account the local climbing ethics. It is ok to bring a few bolts as part of the safety-kit, but they should only be used if necessary to avoid tragedy. Similarly, it is allowed to bring guns at Svalbard in order to defend one self against polar-bears, but it is not allowed to go hunting! It is also illegal to place bolts without a permission from the landowner, and if the place is within a national park or nature reserve.
Jaspers story: Planetmountain, Climbing